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Even today the Handloom Sector occupies a place of eminence in reserving the country's heritage and culture and plays a vital role in the economy. The sector is next to agriculture in providing employment to about 6.5 million persons and produces about 6200 million sq. mt. cloth, which is about 16% of the total textile production. In terms of exports, the estimated foreign exchange earned during the last year was around Rs. 4000 crores. The features of this sector vary across the country. In some parts of Kerala, Tamilnadu, Assam and Orissa where it has attained the status of a mature industry, and in other parts, it is still an enterprise confined to the needs of the household.
Indian Handloom Sector produces a large number of varieties using different fibres like; cotton, wool, silk, jute etc. on different types of handlooms in different techniques. The astonishing varieties of handloom products with their rich colour and design reflect the ethnic diversity of our vast cultural traditions. The variety of textures, weaves and designs in pleasing colour combinations spun off the handloom are infinite, ranging from the finest muslins to heavy rugs, from delicate pastels to vibrant earthy hues, from appealingly simple to fascinatingly intricate compositions.
Just peep into the world of handlooms, and you will find Madras checks and Kancheepuram silks from Tamilnadu, Jamawar shawls from Jammu & Kashmir, woollen shawls from Himachal Pradesh, Ikats from Andhra Pradesh and Orissa, beautiful brocades and Kinkhabs of Varanasi Daccai from West Bengal, jacquard bed cover from Haryana, Patolas from Gujarat, Kota Doria/Bandhej/Leheriya from Rajasthan, Chanderi silk from Madhya Pradesh, Mekhela, Chaddar, Risa, Pachra, Phanels, lysemphy etc. from North-East. And this is just a partial list ! Despite these regional distinctions, there has been a great deal of technical and stylish exchange.
The Handloom Sector has not only survived but has also grown over the decades due to its inherent strengths. Handloom products are aesthetic. Due to manual operations, several combinations are possible in handlooms with intricate designs. The functional properties like drape, texture, strength, wrinkle resistance, dominant stability etc. can be ingeniously manipulated through appropriate designs, exclusive types of fabrics used, counts and twists of warps and yarns, thick density, type of weave, type of fashion and process employed in printing etc. Handloom products are unique and each piece is different from others. The variations in the fabrics and more feasible defects due to the mechanical fault can be reduced by the use of improved looms accessories and gadgets. If such defects are eliminated, the variation in the fabrics is expected to be used advantageously in handlooms because of the exclusivity and uniqueness of each piece.
Nowadays Varanasi's handloom industry hoping for a windfall with Jodha Akbar because of Bollywood Beauty Aishwarya Rai Bachhan (Jodha) will be seen dressed in popular Banarasi saris. Banarasi sari industry had earlier witnessed a high demand when former Miss World Aishwarya bought some of the Banarasi saris for her marriage.
According to me, this may be because the movie will show the real art of Benaras and create hype due to mass awareness resulting into the industry witnessing a tremendous spurt in demand for Banarasi saris across the country. This only leads us to the conclusion that in the present era of marketing a promotional drive and awareness campaigns - direct or indirect can virtually create an insatiable appetite for the handloom products. It is felt that they can have the advantage of catering to a class and also the mass - perhaps better of both the worlds !
However, before this happens a substantial effort will have to go into improving the quality of craftsmanship and also the loom capabilities.
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